I thought i should upgrade the Edge 500 to something a bit better.. so i sold it for the same price i bought it for(only 4 months old) and i ordered a Marvil Everest MTB.
Pricetag: $810/438£
Gear: 27 Shimano Deore
Brakes: Tektro
And the thing that the bicycle chain is on(no idea what the English word for it is..) : Lasco 2044A 44/32/22T and TH 7420 cartridge 68/110
Rims: Vuleta Vision 200 and Shimano HG50-9 11-32T (guess its the outer and inner rim)
Tires: Maxxis 26 x 2.10
Suspension/front fork: TGS MG2002AD
And its an Hardtail.
Looks nice. I want a hybrid that runs well on roads, but I don't want a pure street racer. Feels to fragile. Tested one last year with 29" wheels. It was awsome. Shimano Deore XL gears on it. And when it was on sale at the end of the summer I saw it and decided to get money, some guy came and bought it just as I left the store after noticing it on sale :icon33:
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I don't recognize much of the names and acronyms you mentioned there but I haven't really been in the biking scene in awhile now. I do know deore though since those are parts I have on mine too though. I've never heard of that name for a cyclist manufacturer though. Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad. you can check the welds on the bike to see if it was hand welded or machine welded. if it's hand then it's probably better quality if the make has somekind of experience. often if you do a little research on the company you'll find it was started by so and so from GT or Trek or some other higher end bike brand which is always good cause they bring what they learned there to the new company and usualy make the same quality and charge less. Other than the deore stuff though which isn't bad the rest I've no clue. should be good though if it's around 24lbs though.
It's an Euro brand... not as big as Giant, Kona, GT etc... but its better than my last bike the store owner told me,but nowhere near a real pro bike he added..but i already knew that.. he is a pro cycler and have been in many competitions etc... nice guy 40+.. i trust him.
Yeah sounds like he's not fucking you over if he said that. I don't know any euro brands though since I'm a canuk. I had my bike out this week actualy up north where I was born. fun time, hadn't been up there in ages it was a fun vacation.
Kracus wrote:I don't recognize much of the names and acronyms you mentioned there but I haven't really been in the biking scene in awhile now. I do know deore though since those are parts I have on mine too though. I've never heard of that name for a cyclist manufacturer though. Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad. you can check the welds on the bike to see if it was hand welded or machine welded. if it's hand then it's probably better quality if the make has somekind of experience. often if you do a little research on the company you'll find it was started by so and so from GT or Trek or some other higher end bike brand which is always good cause they bring what they learned there to the new company and usualy make the same quality and charge less. Other than the deore stuff though which isn't bad the rest I've no clue. should be good though if it's around 24lbs though.
you don't know shit about bikes i dont mountain bike and i've heard of everything but the frame builder.
"hand welded is prolly better" lol
"Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad" ROFL
When it comes to individual components I don't really pay attention. I personaly know the person I buy my bikes from and he's married to a cousin of mine too so I trust when he says such and such xt or dx or whatever is good. I know enough about how the parts work to do minor repairs but I don't keep up with the lingo or the types of parts. I usualy know what's good and what's not just by visual inspection but when it's typed out like that I honestly don't know and I said as much you fucking retard.
Knowledge of the indivudual part names and categories isn't what interests me in a bike it's riding the bike that interests me. And I can assure you I can ride it very quickly.
I'm sure there are, I unfortunately don't have any anymore. I raced 1996 and 97 so it's been almost 10 years. I raced on the east coast in a local club called Velo NB. I was in an amateur class called senior sport and I raced senior veteran the next year. I skipped the beginner class cause I was too good. I trained heavily on a bike for the previous 4 years before I raced so I was very well prepared physicaly for the races I had to do although those early road races were pretty rough on a small devinci engima which is basicly a time trial bike.
I didn't win much but I have won and beaten some pretty good riders out there but I always placed very respectable places concidering I was just riding a Giant ATX 970. The giant rep was impressed anyway.
I forget what the name of the league or whatever they called it I don't think it was league it was called a club or something. Velo NB is definitely something you might find online but the races were pretty much open to anyone who would race. Even the world class leagues if you were a member in a club and had a valid liscence for racing in a league. It wasn't anything serious that I ever made a fortune at or that I could do without having a day job but I did win some neat things once in awhile including cash prizes.
Kracus wrote:I don't recognize much of the names and acronyms you mentioned there but I haven't really been in the biking scene in awhile now. I do know deore though since those are parts I have on mine too though. I've never heard of that name for a cyclist manufacturer though. Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad. you can check the welds on the bike to see if it was hand welded or machine welded. if it's hand then it's probably better quality if the make has somekind of experience. often if you do a little research on the company you'll find it was started by so and so from GT or Trek or some other higher end bike brand which is always good cause they bring what they learned there to the new company and usualy make the same quality and charge less. Other than the deore stuff though which isn't bad the rest I've no clue. should be good though if it's around 24lbs though.
you don't know shit about bikes i dont mountain bike and i've heard of everything but the frame builder.
"hand welded is prolly better" lol
"Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad" ROFL
hey p1k you know alot about bikes ey
can i ask you a frame question yo ok.
what makes a frame fail at a head tube weld or a bb weld?
No disc brakes, and you payed $810 for it?
So you mountain bike? Where you ever in any competitions?
What sort of parks/trails (mountain bike) do you have round your place?
I actualy have one built by the city I live in. But rest of the tracks and ramps, jumps, bridges are built by people like me.
Turbine wrote:No disc brakes, and you payed $810 for it?
So you mountain bike? Where you ever in any competitions?
What sort of parks/trails (mountain bike) do you have round your place?
I actualy have one built by the city I live in. But rest of the tracks and ramps, jumps, bridges are built by people like me.
This is the one I have now:
Tribal Ridgeback DX
umm..so a bike gotta have disc brakes for it to be good?
What i heard is that you easily bend discbrakes and when they are not 100% they will fuck up your braking.
No i dont mountain bike... i do ride in woods and on small trails.. a few highland places aswell.
I've been riding both BMX flatland(4-5 years ago) and dirt bike(more recently)... but im not good at knowing shit about bikes anyway... especially not good quality MTB's.
The Marvil im picking up thusday, the owner of the store have helped develop that exact cykel.. he is a pro rider though.
The reason I hate normal V brakes now is because of all the trouble I encountered with them.
First off, after some riding they start to bend to one side and eventualy create friction on your wheel, witch slows me down when I am goeing up steep mountains.
Second, they keep loosing breaking poower, and need constant re-ajustment.
Disk brakes do not create friction, unless they are bent, and cheap ones do get bent if you hit a tree rock or a tree root.
Second, you do not need to apply lot of power to the brake lever to stop completly, and that is good for downhill. Specialy at high speeds.
Finaly, they are just so smooth. And they don't squeek.
Turbine wrote:The reason I hate normal V brakes now is because of all the trouble I encountered with them.
First off, after some riding they start to bend to one side and eventualy create friction on your wheel, witch slows me down when I am goeing up steep mountains.
Tighten the screws?
I've tried disc brakes though... seems ok, but im more used to V brakes and i havent really had any major probs wih 'em.
Turbine wrote:No disc brakes, and you payed $810 for it?
So you mountain bike? Where you ever in any competitions?
What sort of parks/trails (mountain bike) do you have round your place?
I actualy have one built by the city I live in. But rest of the tracks and ramps, jumps, bridges are built by people like me.
This is the one I have now:
[img]
why are you asking about competitions? surely you're not in any with a $400 bike.
Kracus wrote:I don't recognize much of the names and acronyms you mentioned there but I haven't really been in the biking scene in awhile now. I do know deore though since those are parts I have on mine too though. I've never heard of that name for a cyclist manufacturer though. Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad. you can check the welds on the bike to see if it was hand welded or machine welded. if it's hand then it's probably better quality if the make has somekind of experience. often if you do a little research on the company you'll find it was started by so and so from GT or Trek or some other higher end bike brand which is always good cause they bring what they learned there to the new company and usualy make the same quality and charge less. Other than the deore stuff though which isn't bad the rest I've no clue. should be good though if it's around 24lbs though.
you don't know shit about bikes i dont mountain bike and i've heard of everything but the frame builder.
"hand welded is prolly better" lol
"Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad" ROFL
hey p1k you know alot about bikes ey
can i ask you a frame question yo ok.
what makes a frame fail at a head tube weld or a bb weld?
Kracus wrote:I don't recognize much of the names and acronyms you mentioned there but I haven't really been in the biking scene in awhile now. I do know deore though since those are parts I have on mine too though. I've never heard of that name for a cyclist manufacturer though. Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad. you can check the welds on the bike to see if it was hand welded or machine welded. if it's hand then it's probably better quality if the make has somekind of experience. often if you do a little research on the company you'll find it was started by so and so from GT or Trek or some other higher end bike brand which is always good cause they bring what they learned there to the new company and usualy make the same quality and charge less. Other than the deore stuff though which isn't bad the rest I've no clue. should be good though if it's around 24lbs though.
you don't know shit about bikes i dont mountain bike and i've heard of everything but the frame builder.
"hand welded is prolly better" lol
"Probably an privately owned one which isn't always bad" ROFL
hey p1k you know alot about bikes ey
can i ask you a frame question yo ok.
what makes a frame fail at a head tube weld or a bb weld?
ty
quality of weld, quality of steel (i'm into 70-80's lugged style myself, handmade and strong). aluminum usually will tear in those high stress spots though i've seen chainstays shear as well. also, if the bike is too small for your body type you will rip it up.
so, stay away from aluminum, chromoly is OK, but reynolds 853 or columbus tubing is what you want steel-wise. of course, there's always ti. that shit just doesn't break :P
i dont mountain bike and i've heard of everything but the frame builder.
