Quake3World

Doombrain wrote:

I like this one. It has a lot of complexity and it looks like a scan from B&W film. I wonder what it would look like with a really long exposure like f/11 @ 4 seconds, give or take

nice, how wide?

No idea.. I just chopped off the top and bottom using a 2.35:1 aspect ratio

It was 24mm according to the EXIF (and judging by the softness on the edges)

itd be nicer without the truck, IMO. would give it a more 'classic' feel

I agree. Either the truck or the pump has to go. Something feels wrong.

(also, did you use a polarization filter?)

Nice photos, Dave.

SplishSplash wrote:I agree. Either the truck or the pump has to go. Something feels wrong.

(also, did you use a polarization filter?)

Truck and pump stay, bitches!


No polarizer, I just converted it to black and white with a dark sky then erased it back to color with the history brush in one motion and faded the history brush with multiply or overlay to darken the colors... The same thing I did with the church on the previous page.

Recent random stuff...

Nice sir. I just got a Canon timer remote, so I'm hoping to do something like your third shot. How long was the exposure on that?

20secs - F13 if I remember correctly. I didn't have my ND or CPL filter with me that evening and anything over F16 on the Tokina 12-24mm gets soft. Didn't have a tripod either the camera was resting on my glove with the lens dangling off the ledge.

Dave wrote:There's nothing wrong with program mode

I got mixed up with something else, I was thinking of the 'Creative Zone' modes for some reason.


Oh, I was going to ask a question. When, for example, using Manual/Av mode I can see that the shutter speed is a little too long for what I want. Say I'm shooting at 50mm indoors and the shutter has to be 1/20 to give an exposure reading of 0 (forget aperture/ISO). If I pop up the flash this doesn't seem to affect the exposure reading at all, even if I try using the FEL feature too. I'd have expected the camera to show a +2 or something exposure reading in which I'd have to shorten the shutter to correct it back down to 0.

If I try it in Program mode it works fine and drops the shutter automatically.

Yeah, the P is ok... It's those little green modes with pictures of flowers, mountains and running men you have to be careful about.


Dunno what camera you're using, but on a Rebel all the flash does Av is add fill. It expects ambient light to be the main source. Manual is probably the same

FanaticX wrote:20secs - F13 if I remember correctly. I didn't have my ND or CPL filter with me that evening and anything over F16 on the Tokina 12-24mm gets soft. Didn't have a tripod either the camera was resting on my glove with the lens dangling off the ledge.

I'm thinking about getting the Tokina 12-24mm, although I'd prefer something like 10-22 (not getting the Sigma though!). How's the CA on the Tokina? Is that citywide photo taken with the Tokina?

Few more questions....do you use Cokin filter holding system for your ND? Is your Nikon 17-55 f2.8 really worth that damn much money?

I'd really like to upgrade from my (reasonable) kitlens to a zoom like the 17-55 or 17-35 or the 12-24 Nikon, but they're all around 1200-1500 euros.

Dave wrote:Yeah, the P is ok... It's those little green modes with pictures of flowers, mountains and running men you have to be careful about.


Dunno what camera you're using, but on a Rebel all the flash does Av is add fill. It expects ambient light to be the main source. Manual is probably the same

Ah that would explain it. I'm using a 20D. I guess that using P and adjusting the aperture/shutter to what I want is the better way to do what I want then?

I almost always use manual or P when I use a flash. Set the shutter at something like 60, 125 or 200, then set the aperture wherever you want within reason and use the * on the back to set the flash level. If it seems too dark, I just bump up the ISO a little. You can also put it on Tv and let the camera do aperture automatically, but it always picks the widest aperture if you don't have enough light.

PhoeniX wrote:

MaCaBr3 wrote:Well erm, it's a picture of champagne glasses.

I think it would be better if the main point of focus wasn't in the centre. See the Rule Of Thirds.

From your exif: Program (Auto) pfft . (yes, I still haven't posted any pictures yet)

I might be a noob, but not too nobie to be taking pictures in P

Mate told me it was good to exercise in Program mode, so I would learn how more about how the camera decides aparture and shutter speed, but how I could still manually changed them if I wanted too.

Here's the whole set of the Xmas party at my place, I could use some pointers please:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14668843@N ... 437520728/

Remeber it's the first time I'm actually taking pictures. I probably could have used a smaller aparture with higher ISO setting or something.

lol.. rule number one with flash is don't put it on tungsten white balance

yeah erm, mate almost slapped me when he saw the abysmal that is those flash pictures

MaCaBr3 wrote:yeah erm, mate almost slapped me when he saw the abysmal that is those flash pictures

don't feel bad i'm right there in noobville with you on this stuff.

saturn wrote: I'm thinking about getting the Tokina 12-24mm, although I'd prefer something like 10-22 (not getting the Sigma though!). How's the CA on the Tokina? Is that citywide photo taken with the Tokina?

Few more questions....do you use Cokin filter holding system for your ND? Is your Nikon 17-55 f2.8 really worth that damn much money?

I'd really like to upgrade from my (reasonable) kitlens to a zoom like the 17-55 or 17-35 or the 12-24 Nikon, but they're all around 1200-1500 euros.

CA is noticable on the Tokina but stopping down (F8->) improves upon that. CA is easy to deal with most of the time so it's a non-issue to me.

I don't use Cokin filters. I find them clumsy and clunky. I just use the regular 77mm filters (+step-up rings).

If you're contemplating the fast zooms because of price, then it's probably not worth it. If you're happy with your kit lens just stick with that. The 12-24mm will provide you with the most satisfaction because you don't have the ultra-wide perspective now. It's also a great bargain. The 17-55 or 17-35 will be boring to you because you already have those focal lenghts covered. They will also add a lot of weight to your setup.

Dave wrote:I almost always use manual or P when I use a flash. Set the shutter at something like 60, 125 or 200, then set the aperture wherever you want within reason and use the * on the back to set the flash level. If it seems too dark, I just bump up the ISO a little. You can also put it on Tv and let the camera do aperture automatically, but it always picks the widest aperture if you don't have enough light.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks .

I just took a picture outside my house, I opened it in Photoshop and I could see tiny parts of a video I was playing in VLC in my picture. Apparently the little water feature in our garden has the same colour as the colour used to paint videos too, odd. .

Take a look at this. It's written for off camera flashes, but it should apply to the onboard one in some cases:
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/


Flash on Manual

FanaticX wrote:

saturn wrote: I'm thinking about getting the Tokina 12-24mm, although I'd prefer something like 10-22 (not getting the Sigma though!). How's the CA on the Tokina? Is that citywide photo taken with the Tokina?

Few more questions....do you use Cokin filter holding system for your ND? Is your Nikon 17-55 f2.8 really worth that damn much money?

I'd really like to upgrade from my (reasonable) kitlens to a zoom like the 17-55 or 17-35 or the 12-24 Nikon, but they're all around 1200-1500 euros.

CA is noticable on the Tokina but stopping down (F8->) improves upon that. CA is easy to deal with most of the time so it's a non-issue to me.

I don't use Cokin filters. I find them clumsy and clunky. I just use the regular 77mm filters (+step-up rings).

If you're contemplating the fast zooms because of price, then it's probably not worth it. If you're happy with your kit lens just stick with that. The 12-24mm will provide you with the most satisfaction because you don't have the ultra-wide perspective now. It's also a great bargain. The 17-55 or 17-35 will be boring to you because you already have those focal lenghts covered. They will also add a lot of weight to your setup.

Sound advice, thx. I wanted a zoomlens with some better build quality, but it's probably not worth upping the mortgage

Dave wrote:Take a look at this. It's written for off camera flashes, but it should apply to the onboard one in some cases:
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/


Flash on Manual :D

Cheers, I'll have a read of it sometime.

Your left arm scares me. :p